留美实录 | 干草市场,波士顿的记忆
地球日报
来源:公众号 “罗红霉素和夏冰雹”
Haymarket, the Memory of Boston
On Friday morning when the wind cuts one to the bone, at the bustling open-air Haymarket, vendors are crying out their wares and buyers are rushing from different parts of the city。 Joe Lapage, standing beside his seafood stall, is watching young and old, foreign and domestic, women and men come and go in the market。
在星期五早上,凉风刺骨,在熙熙攘攘的露天甘草市场,供应商们叫卖他们的商品, 买家从城市的不同地方赶来 。 乔·拉普奇站在他的海鲜摊位旁边,看着年轻人和老年人、外国人和美国人、女人和男人在市场上来来往往。
Joe, a 42-year-old Bostonian, has a pair of blue glaring, beaming eyes and blonde beards encircling his white teeth。 He wears a grey sweatshirt and light blue jeans, with light smell of seafood。
42岁的波士顿人乔拥有一双闪亮的蓝色眼睛,金色的胡须环绕着他的白色牙齿。他穿着一件灰色运动衫和浅蓝色牛仔裤,身上带有淡淡的海鲜味。
Joe works on every Friday and Saturday, year-around。 He starts working at 5 am, replenishes his cart with fresh seafood bought from distributors, and sets up a tent and a stall two blocks away from theNew England Holocaust Memorial。 He slices cod, salmon, and tuna into pieces, and refrigerated snapper, sardines, and yellowtail。 At 8 am, everything is ready。 The market is about open。
乔每周五和周六工作。 他在凌晨5点开始工作,将他的购物车装满从分销商购买来的新鲜海鲜,并在离新英格兰纳粹大屠杀纪念馆两个街区的地方设立了一个帐篷和一个摊位。 他将鳕鱼、鲑鱼和金枪鱼切成片,并冷藏鲷鱼、沙丁鱼和黄尾鱼。上午8点,一切都准备就绪。市场即将开放。
Many vendors bring their kids here。 These kids are giggling, frolicking around his booth。 Joe smiles at them, reminiscing the days when his father took him down to the market。
许多供应商把他们的孩子带到这里。这些孩子笑着,在他的摊位周围嬉戏。 乔对他们微笑,回想起他父亲把他带到市场的日子。
“I have a lot of fun here,” he said。
“我在这里玩得很开心,”他说。
Joe has been working at Haymarket for two decades。 Joe’s father, who passed this business to him, had worked as a seafood seller for 50 years。 His grandfather did it for 75years。
乔在甘草市场工作了二十年。乔的父亲将曾在海鲜卖家工作了50年,并将这生意交给乔。乔的祖父在这儿干了75年。
Like his father, Joe often brings his 5-year-old son to the market。 He said that the greatest thing about being a seafood vendor is to feed his son with all kinds of seafood because his son eats a lot。
和他的父亲对他一样,乔常常把他5岁的儿子带到市场。他说,成为海鲜供应商最大的好处就是为儿子提供各种海鲜,因为他的儿子吃得很多。
When asked about whether he expects his son to inherit his family’s tradition of selling seafood, Joe shrugged, “Oh, well, if only he wants to。”
当被问及他是否希望他的儿子继承他家卖海鲜的传统时,乔耸耸肩说:“噢,好吧,只要他想。”
For Joe, two-centuries-old Haymarket, which was founded 40 years earlier than American Revolutionary War, means more than livelihood。 It is bound up with their memories of the city as the three generations of Joe’s family grew up here, and feel the breath, pulse of Boston。
拥有两个世纪历史的干草市场比美国革命战争早40年成立。对乔而言,这市场意味着不仅仅是生计,也意味着他们对城市的记忆。乔家三代人在这里长大,感受着波士顿的气息和脉搏。
19世纪的甘草市场广场
“I have seen a lot of changes here,” said Joe, “the market used to be larger than what is now。”
“我在这里看到很多变化,”乔说,“市场曾经比现在更大。”
When he was young, Haymarket reached far beyond Blackstone Street。 But now the market barely touches this street。 The development, zoning projects of the city have led Haymarket to shrink every year。
在他年轻的时候,甘草市场远远超越了黑石街。但现在市场几乎没有触及这条街。 城市的发展、分区计划导致市场每年都在萎缩。
A highway stretches over the all ofthe pushcarts。 Also, a six-story Haymarket hotel is about to break ground on Blackstone Street and Greenway the following spring, and developers will renovate facilities for trash and restrooms for vendors。
一条高速公路横跨所有的手推车。此外,六层的酒店将于明年春天在黑石街和格林威大道上开业,开发商将为小摊贩们翻新垃圾桶和洗手间。
“Some people give up selling produce here,” Joe said。 “Many people give up the business and don’t want to sell their licenses to others。”
“有些人放弃在这里出售产品,”乔说, “许多人放弃了业务又不想将许可证出售给他人。”
But to Joe’srelief, the market is always here。 Joe has witnessed the market becoming more diverse。 Through much of the 20th century, the majority of Haymarket vendors were descendants of Italian。 Over the recent years, immigrants from more than20 countries have flowed into the market, hawking and chattering in different languages, and serving ethnic groups and people from every income level。
让乔感到庆幸的是,甘草市场总是在这里。 乔目睹了市场变得更加多样化。在20世纪的大部分时间里,大多数商贩都是意大利人的后裔。近年来,来自20多个国家的移民涌入市场,用不同的语言叫卖、喋喋不休,为来自各个收入阶层的族裔和人民服务。
Diagonally across from where Joe stands, a family from Cambodia pulls cabbages out of cartons, babbling and beaming。 With a heating device, their tents are cozy, amiable, resistant to the cold of 19.4 Fahrenheit。 Right behind him, a Syrian immigrant is dashing all over the place to get change for his hundred-dollar bill。
乔的斜对面,柬埔寨一家人将卷心菜从箱子里拿出来,嘀咕着、喜气洋洋。 他们的帐篷装有加热设备,舒适宜人,能够抵御19.4华氏度的寒冷。 在他身后,一名叙利亚移民四处奔跑,给顾客找钱。
When time passes 10 o’clock, the crowd of customers is dispersing, and the hubbub of voices turns into serenity。 Joe puts his hands into his jean pockets and strolls to his neighboring stall。 He helps his fellow arrange fresh vegetables and fruits in good order, and sprinkles water onto them。 The vendor of the neighboring stall patted on Joe’s back。 Joe winked at him。
当时间过了10点钟,人群逐渐消散,喧哗变得宁静。 乔把手伸进他的牛仔裤口袋,走到他邻居的摊位上。 他帮邻居整理好新鲜蔬菜和水果,并向他们洒水。 邻居摊位的卖主在乔的背上拍了拍。乔向他眨了眨眼。
Joe points his finger at a pile of strawberries。 Two boxes, weighing about two pounds, only cost $5。 “Except here, you have nowhere to find such cheap strawberries,” said Joe, unfolding his hands in the air, raising his eyebrows。
乔把手指指向一堆草莓。 两盒分别重达两磅的草莓只需要5美元。 “除了这里,没别的地方有这么便宜的草莓,”乔说,伸出双手,扬起眉毛。
Boston is a such an expensive city with cost of living 39.7percent higher than the national average。 Only at Haymarket, you can buy a box of blueberries for $1, each cauliflower for $2, half a meter-long salmon fillet for $9, much lower than the cost of produce at the supermarket.This is the market that carries on the tradition of serving those underserved。
波士顿是一个消费很高的城市,生活成本高于全国平均水平39.7%。只有在甘草市场,你可以用购买1美元一盒的蓝莓,2美元一株花椰菜,9美元可以买到半米长的三文鱼,价格远低于超市售价。甘草市场,就这样继承了为底层人民服务的传统。
Joe has become a part of Haymarket and its history, and Haymarket has also become a part of him。 As Joe is heading back to his stall, he said, “Welcome to Boston!”
乔已经成为甘草市场及其历史的一部分,甘草市场也成为他的一部分。乔回到他的摊位时,说:“欢迎来到波士顿!”
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