Revealed： reality of life working in an Ivanka Trump clothing factory
The reality of working in a factory making clothes for Ivanka Trump’s label has been laid bare， with employees speaking of being paid so little they cannot live with their children， anti-union intimidation and women being offered a bonus if they don’t take time off while menstruating。
给伊万卡·特朗普品牌代工的服装厂，其工作现状已众所周知，员工说工资太少，没法养活儿女，公司恐吓工会，女员工经期不请假能拿到一笔奖金。
The Guardian has spoken to more than a dozen workers at the fashion label’s factory in Subang，Indonesia， where employees describe being paid one of the lowest minimum wages in Asia and there are claims of impossibly high production targets and sporadically compensated over time。
《卫报》采访了十多个在该时尚品牌印度尼西亚素邦工厂的工人。他们说自己的收入在亚洲都算最低的，还有人说产量目标高得吓人，加班补助不过偶尔有之。
The workers’ complaints come only a week after labour activists investigating possible abuses at a Chinese factory that makes Ivanka Trump shoesdisappeared into police custody.The activists’ group claimed they had uncovered a host of violations at the plant including salaries below China’s legal minimum wage， managers verbally abusing workers and “violations of women’s rights”。
劳工活动人士调查一家生产伊凡卡鞋的中国工厂，认为后者可能存在虐工，却神不知鬼不觉地进了牢房，此后不过一周工夫，当地工人们就开始抱怨工作条件了。活动人士组织声称，他们发现工厂存在很多违规行为，薪酬低于中国法定平均工资，经理辱骂工人，侵犯女性权利。
In the Indonesian factory， some of the complaints are similar， although the wages paid to employees in Subang are much lower.Here we look at life inside the factory through interviews with workers， all who have asked for their details to be changed to avoid losing their jobs。
在印尼工厂，抱怨也差不多，尽管素邦工厂的工资更低。通过对工人进行采访，我们来看看工厂里的生活，他们都要求修饰细节，免得丢了饭碗。
“We don’t like Donald Trump’s policies”
Alia is nothing if not industrious。 She has worked in factories on and off since leaving her provincial high school， through the birth of two children， leading up to her current job making clothes for brands includingIvanka Trumpat the PT Buma Apparel Industry factory in Subang， West Java。
阿利亚除了勤劳肯干，就谈不上什么别的优势了。从省高中毕业后，她断断续续地在工厂做工，中间生了两个孩子，现在在品牌代工厂上班，产品包括伊凡卡品牌。工厂是位于西爪哇省的素邦的PT Buma服装厂。
Throughout her marriage to her husband， Ahmad， one or both of them has always worked。 And yet， says Alia， the couple can never think about clearing their debts。 Instead， what she has to show for years of work at PT Buma is two rooms in a dusty boarding house， rented for $30 a month and decorated with dozens of photos of their children because the couple can’t dream of having enough money to have them at home。 The children live， instead， with their grandmother， hours away by motorcycle， and see their parents just one weekend a month， when they can afford the gasoline。
同丈夫阿哈默德结婚后，丈夫一直工作，她也断断续续地工作。可阿利亚说，两口子压根不敢设想能还清债务。相反，在PT Buma工作多年后，拿得出手的只有满是灰尘的公寓中的一处两居室。房租每月30美金，墙上贴着数十张孩子的照片，因为他们做梦都难以凑够钱把孩子带在身边。孩子和奶奶住在一起，骑摩托车得好几个小时的路程。买得起汽油时，他们每个月才能抽出一个周末去探望孩子。
Alia makes the legal minimum wage for her job in her province： 2.3 million rupiahs， or about $173 a month – but that legal minimum is among the lowest in Indonesia as a whole， and as much as 40% lower than in Chinese factories， another labour source for the Ivanka Trump brand。
阿利亚拿本省法定最低工资，230万卢比，约合每月173美元。这一标准在印尼是最低的，比伊凡卡品牌在中国的工厂少40%。
PT Buma， a Korean-owned garment company started in Indonesia in 1999， is one of the suppliers of G-III Apparel Group， the wholesale manufacturer for prominent fashion brands including Trump’s clothing.Many Buma workers know who Ivanka Trump is。 Alia noticed her labels popping up on the clothes about a year ago。
PT Buma是一家韩国服装公司，1999年在印尼创办，为G-III服饰集团供货，集团是包括伊万卡服装在内的一些著名时尚品牌的大宗厂商。很多Buma的工人都知道伊万卡。阿利亚在一年前注意到衣服上打了伊凡卡的商标。
Ahmad， who also works in the local garment industry and who， like his wife and most of the workers at her PT Buma factory， is an observant Muslim， said： “We don’t like Donald Trump’s policies。”He had followed news of the so-called Muslim ban on TV this year。 “But we’re not in a position to make employment decisions based on our principles，” he said。
阿哈默德也在当地的服装企业工作，同妻子及大多数PT Buma工厂员工一样，他是一名虔诚的穆斯林。他说：“我们不喜欢伊万卡的政策。”今年他一直在电视上关注穆斯林禁令的新闻。“但我们没法根据我们的原则作出就业决定。”他说。
When Alia was told the gist of Ivanka Trump’s new book on women in the workplace， she burst out laughing。 Her idea of work-life balance， she said， would be if she could see her children more than once a month。
阿利亚得知伊万卡有关女性职场新观点时，她不禁笑出声来。她说，所谓工作与生活的平衡，对她而言不过是每个月多看一次孩子。
There are currently 2，759 workers at Buma， according to the regional manpower office， of which the total unionised workforce is about 200， split between two unions。
当地人力部门数据显示，Buma现有2759名工人，未参加工会的200来人，其他人分别加入了两个工会。
For the majority of non-union Buma workers， their job is a run-of-the-mill hardship to be endured。 About three-quarters of them are women， many are mothers and several， like Alia， devote almost all their income to children with whom they can’t afford to live。
对绝大多数未参加工会的Buma员工来说，他们的工作就是干苦活。其中四分之三都是女性，很多人已为人母。同阿利亚一样，不少人几乎把所有收入都给孩子用了，她们没钱把孩子带在身边。
Sita， 23， is one such worker。 She had to drop out of college when her parents got sick and started working at Buma last year。 She told the Guardian that her contract will be terminated soon， after seven months of work。
23岁的西塔就是其中之一。父母生病后她不得不离开大学，去年开始在Buma工作。她对《卫报》说，她干了七个月，合同很快就要到期。
“That’s one of the company’s ways to cope with extra expenses，” she said。 As a contract worker， she will not get any severance。 “I can’t stand it anymore。 I work unpaid overtime every day and still earn just 2.3 million [rupiah] a month。 I’m planning to move from Subang， where the minimum wage is too low。 But I don’t know where to go yet。 I haven’t got any connections。”
“这就是公司缩减开销的办法。”作为合同工，她不会拿到一分钱遣散金。“我再也受不了了，每天加班都没有报酬，一个月只有230万卢比。我想从素邦搬走，最低工资太低了。但我还不知道去哪里，我没什么关系。”
But for some the chance of a job and a pay packet – albeit a small one – is cause for some satisfaction.Eka， a single mother in her 30s with two children， who has spent seven years at Buma， told the Guardian： “I still like my job。 It’s not too hard。”
但对有些人而言，有工作机会，有钱赚，虽然少，可值得做出一些牺牲。30岁的埃卡是个单身妈妈，有两个孩子。她在Buma工作了7年，她说她喜欢自己的工作，不觉得特别累。
And Yuma， a young unmarried woman， said， “I’m glad that I work at Buma now because my parents are farmers and it’s a tiring job。 Here， at least there is air conditioning。”
尤玛是一个年轻的单身女性，她说，如今在Buma工作很高兴，她的父母都是农民，干农活很繁重，这里至少有空调。
The workers have spoken to appear to typify the average employee making Ivanka Trump clothes in Indonesia。 They are not egregiously abused but are in circumstances so far removed from the first daughter’s“women who work”brand that it was impossible for them to imagine a situation where anyone would wear the dresses they were sewing。 Ivanka Trump stepped down from running her brand in January， although all products still bear her name on the label。
接受采访的工人可能代表了给伊万卡生产服装的普通印尼工人的心态。她们谈不上受到什么非人虐待，但也无法想象有人穿着他们缝制的衣服，她们的工作环境与美国第一女儿“工作中的女人”这一品牌定位相距甚远。伊凡卡一月份不再经营她的品牌，尽管所有产品还打着她的名字。
Women who are permanent employees at the Buma factory do get certain concessions： three months’ paid maternity leave （usually split between six weeks of pregnancy and six weeks post-birth）， mandatory federal health insurance and a monthly bonus of $10.50 if they don’t take a day off for menstruation。
Buma正式工中的女性确实有些好处，包括三个月的产假（经常被分在孕期用六周，产后六周）；强制政府健康保险；如果经期不请假每个月获得10.5美元的奖金。
These reports of the Buma factory seem largely typical of the other factories in West Java， said Andriko Otang， of Indonesia’s Trade Union Rights Centre。 “Using unrealistic production targets to justify unpaid overtime is very common。”
印尼工会权利中心的安德里科·乌唐说：对Buma工厂的报道与西爪哇省其他工厂大体一样：“制定不现实的生产目标来证明加班不给钱是合理的，这很常见。”
According to a photo of a timetable， one worker showed the Guardian， the production targets， broken down for every half hour between 7 am and 4 pm， are between 58 and 92 garments per period， while the actual numbers produced are recorded as 27 to 40。
根据一名工人给《卫报》展示的时间表照片，7点到16点之间每半个小时为一个时段，每个时段的生产目标是58到92件衣服，但真正生产出来的只有27到40件。
“The management is getting smarter： they tap out our ID cards at 4 pm so you can’t prove anything，” said Wildan， a 25-year-old male worker.Seven workers also said they were subject to verbal abuse， being called things like “animals， moron and monkey”。 Otang said this， too， was fairly common.Beyond this， Buma also has a pattern of firing workers right before Ramadan and rehiring them a month later， to avoid paying a “religious holiday bonus”， according to several workers。
“管理越来越鸡贼，下午4点就给我们刷卡。所以你什么也证明不了。”25岁的男性员工威尔丹告诉我们。有七名工人说他们被语言侮辱，被唤作“动物，笨蛋，猴子”。乌唐也表示这很常见。除此之外，很多工人说，Buma还有高招，他们在斋月前辞退工人，一个月后又重新招聘，以此避免支付宗教假期奖金。
Indonesian law dictates all workers are owed a holiday bonus according to their religion， which works out to at least a month’s wages or more depending on seniority。 In May 2017， there were about 290 people fired before Ramadan， according to Toto Sunarto， a leader of the SPSI union in Subang。
印尼法律规定所有工人都可根据宗教信仰享受假期奖金，至少是一个月的工资或者根据每个人的年资发放。一个工会领导说，在2017年5月，大约290人在斋月前被辞退。
“The buck stops with her”
Indonesia has the largest gap among Asian countries between high and low wages for unskilled garment workers， according to the International Labor Organisation。 None of the workers the Guardian spoke with has ever received performance-based raises， only federally mandated ones – even though some of them have worked at the factory continuously for seven years。
据世界劳工组织调查显示，亚洲国家中，印尼的非熟练制衣工人间工资差距最大。《卫报》采访的所有工人都没有按工作表现获得晋升，政府有这种规定，而且不少人已经连续工作七年了。
“You have to assess minimum wages in the context of the country itself and， in that context， it’s not a living wage，” said David Welsh， Indonesia and Malaysia director at the Solidarity Center。 “Given the disparity in wages across Indonesia， we see a trend whereby factories are migrating increasingly to the lowest wage jurisdictions … whose terms are essentially dictated deliberately by western brands。”
“团结中心”印尼和马来西亚主管大卫·威尔士说 ：“在当地，你至少要拿最低工资，可最低工资根本没法让人糊口。考虑到印尼地区间的工资差距，我们发现越来越多工厂往工资低的地方搬迁，那些地方的工作条件基本就是西方品牌随意制定的。”
None of the not-already unionised workers who spoke to the Guardian expressed a desire to join one， citing fears of being fired and a general sense that their work wasn’t all that bad。 Sita， for instance， said she “voluntarily” worked overtime almost every day because they never met their targets。
《卫报》采访了那些没有参加工会的工人，她们没人愿意加入工会，因为害怕被开除，觉得工作还没有那么糟糕。比如斯塔，她说自己每天自愿因没有完成工作目标而加班。
“It’s not surprising to me that in a factory like this， you have rank and file workers who are unclear on what their rights are， and what the law says in terms of wages and rights，” said Jim Keady， an American labour rights activist who has worked extensively in Indonesia。 “But with these poverty wages — and I would call it that — just because something is legal， doesn’t mean it is moral。
“在这样一家工厂工作，我不觉得吃惊，你有一些基层员工不清楚他们的权利，不清楚还有法律规定工资和权利，”美国劳动权利活动人士吉姆·科亚迪说，他在印尼工作。“但仅高于贫困线的工资，我会这么说，它是合法的，但不意味着它合乎道德。”
“The buck stops with her，” said Keady， of Ivanka。 “It’s her name that’s on the dress。 Without her， there is no brand。”
“她就是钱。”科亚迪这么说伊凡卡。“她的名字打在这些衣服上，没有她，就是杂牌货。”
Carry Somers， founder of the non-profit Fashion Revolution said： “Ivanka Trump claims to be the ultimate destination for Women Who Work， but this clearly doesn’t extend to the women who work for her in factories around the world。”
非盈利组织“时尚革命”创始人凯利·索莫斯说：“伊万卡·特朗普自称将成为事业女性的终极目标，但这肯定不包括在全球各地为她的工厂打工的女性。”
In March， Indonesia was called out by President Donald Trump for having an unfavourable trade balance with the US。 The president took issue with Indonesia’s $13bn surplus last year and vowed to penalise “cheating foreign importers”。
三月，特朗普总统称印尼和美国存在贸易逆差，他对印尼去年13亿美元贸易盈余表示不满，宣称要惩罚不诚实的外国进口商。
The fortunes of Ivanka’s brand have fluctuated wildly in the past year。 During her father’s campaign， net sales for her brand increased by almost $18m in the year ending 31 January 2017， according to G-III data。 But in recent months， several department stores have pulled her brand and G-III discreetly relabelled some Ivanka Trump merchandiseunder a different house brand， Adrienne Vitadini。
去年，伊万卡品牌价值波动很大。G-III数据显示，父亲参选期间，截至2017年1月31日，其品牌净销售增长了1800万美元。可最近几个月，很多百货商店撤下了她的品牌，G-III明智地给不少伊万卡产品贴上了一个新标签：“Adrienne Vitadini”。
Hepi Abdulmanaf， an official with the local manpower ministry， was flattered by the Trump connection。 “It’s proof that Indonesian goods are good enough for the world。 Hopefully this – quality garments – becomes something Indonesia is known for。”
当地人力资源部的西皮阿卜杜马纳福为同特朗普扯上关系感到得意。“这证明印尼产品对全世界来说足够好，我希望高品质的服装成为印尼的代名词。”
Meanwhile， the word “minus” was a common refrain among Buma workers， denoting ongoing debt。 “We can never think about leaving debt，” said Alia。 The cost of infant formula， school books， or a family visit can put these workers over the edge in any given month。
同时，“负”这个词Buma工人经常提起，指的是自己的债务。“我们从来没想过不背债。”阿利亚说。奶粉钱、学校书本费或是回家的路费都让工人们入不敷出。
Fadli， a young man who works in the warehouse part of the factory， sees all the brands’ price tags as they are prepared for shipment to the United States。“Sure I’m proud to make clothes for a well-known brand，” he said。 “But because I see the price tags， I have to wonder， can’t they pay us a bit more？”
在工厂仓库工作的年轻人法迪利，他可以看到所有品牌的价格标签，它们都会被运往美国。“当然，我很骄傲能生产品牌服装。但因为我看到了价签，我不禁会想，难道他们不能多开点工资吗？”
The Guardian contacted PT Buma for comment on the claims made in this article。 A spokeswoman said neither she， nor anyone else at Buma Jakarta， nor anyone else at Buma Subang， wanted to comment。
《卫报》就这些问题联系了PT Buma。发言人说她或是雅加达Buma的任何人，以及在素邦Buma的任何人都不想回答。
G-III Apparel， which became the exclusive supplier of Ivanka Trump’s brand in 2012 told the Guardian in a statement： “G-III Apparel Group， Ltd。 is committed to legal compliance and ethical business practices in all of our operations worldwide； we expect and require the same of our business partners throughout the world。 We audit and inspect our vendor’s production facilities and when issues arise we work with our partners to correct them promptly。”
G-III服饰在2012年成为伊万卡品牌的独家供货商，它给《卫报》的书面声明中说：“G-III服装集团有限公司承诺世界范围内各工厂都应遵守法律和行业道德。我们希望并要求我们的全球商业伙伴这样做。我们审计并核查零售商的生产条件，当出现问题时，我们会和商业伙伴一同予以恰当地纠正。”
The Guardian also approached the White House for comment。 None was forthcoming at the time of publication。 The Ivanka Trump brand’s public relations company declined to offer any comment。
卫报要求白宫做出评论。报道播发时还没有回复。伊万卡品牌的公关公司也拒绝做出评论。
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